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Another day in paradise mm colored South wall " ;another day " ;route climbing notes ( as received a wild magazine book ,remembered the transcript posted here. Not much, because the hard circuit board is not repaired, so just before being emitted from the mail in the recovery of some seventeenth section .Classification of " ;5.9+"is at the time of we two people already have several months not been mature route climbing conditions set out ,and because it has been climbing and ice climbing so small force is poor . In March in Yangshuo, open up 5.8allsweaty, realized that if 5.9isa very soft ," ;" ;more pull .After all was the first sense, but at that time in the mountains does have a relatively high commitment, grading will retain it, just to explain the " ;5.9+"in fact quite exaggerate ,pure climbing difficulty even harder 5.8singlemovement line do not. ) colored mountain is located on the double ditch and long Ping ditch between ,5430 meters above sea level,in a description is often rather than on the north side of 5609 meters and confused after the mirror .No exact summit records ,but it is said that someone had to climb to the peak of its southeastern side between 5420 peaks of the saddle 2010 February.8-11,my partner Li Lan ,along the south wall groove on the right side of the rock ridge southeast ascent up the mountain .Although colored Hill before this how is it right? Not Dengfeng remains to be confirmed ,but our climbing route is most likely a new route ,because we in the almost complete absence of ice and snow in the south wall climbing and descending process, are not found in any rock cone ,rope ,garbage and other mountaineering team may leave traces .We take " another day in Paradise" lyrics ;;meaning, take this route (if it is a new route .) named " ;another day " ;( Another Day ) ,graded V, 5.9 +,18 Duan Shengfrom the origin .First saw colored mountain was in December 08 meets Yao Mei for the first time,from 5200 meters of the glacier can clearly see the huge arc-like folded ,then just think this gable is really amazing ,and not think about anything .Give birth to this mountain climbing desire ,is 09 year in Februarywith Zhou Peng Yao Mei, but it was felt that " ;such a mountain to try " ;,and without any specific plan. True to the mountain as the target is in December 09, planning for 09-10 winterClimb plan. This winter plan has two main mountain project :with Li Lan Chi Bu ,with Zhou Peng and Luo Biao to colors ,which colored mountain route selection for bridge ( south side of the trench wall ) ,rather than did the northern .For this program ,I also specialized in ice intermittent rest of the time walking close to the south wall at the foot of the position to observe the route, initially identified the most likely climbing route is along the snow ( at the time that the grooves inside the white snow ) in the southeast of grooves have been upward. Peer high plan and Long Ping side photos are analyzed ,five mountain peak and not from real double groove side looking to " ;the highest point ,but " ;Southeast groove on the right side of the small protuberance ,this lets " ;along the southeast grooves to " ;plan seems logical .The results ,Chi Bu climb into all aspects of negative factors gather together, leading to a complete failure ,and Zhou Peng and Luo Biao because the training work, unable to make time to schedule beginning at 2 climbingcolored mountain .So I asked Li Lan ,have the time and interest to the mountain ,she readily consented .So ,although not in the predetermined time ,not with The predetermined partner ,but I was in February 8th this day morning ,officially set foot on the road to colored mountain stronghold .Climb .First day ( 11)8 days morningten thirty from double ditch Xu last leave home at four thirty in the afternoon ,five hill about 4800 metres to put down .9morning7:45,day was bright ,we on the wall at the foot of the gravel slope starting .Tents and a sleeping bag in the camp ,we carry camping equipment material includes a silicon Nylon Double camping bag ,a sleeping bag ,furnace head and a tank of gas ,and day and night food is the very next day .Plan on or rush on the cliffs ,sleep in the night ,10 daysafternoon or evening withdrawn camp .Leave scree in tilted limestone fold unprotected miter a short ,pulls the rope ,began to try to climb steep, it was found impossible :limestone is very smooth ,and many do not place a strong ,it is loose ,continuous several meters are not worthy of the hand foot point ;although Li Lan borrowed rock climbing shoes ,but in subzero temperatures ,we two people are not willing to change relatively warmer mountaineering .Then changed right along a fold Ruffle striped continue miter ,because we leave the scree slope to the rock face location is almost in the whole mountain the median ,and the target southeast trench is deviation to the right side ,right there. The slope is not steep limestone fold ,but it is difficult to find suitable for setting protection point of rock structure ,climbed to third when Duan Sheng is almost a the whole section can set the midway point protection ,finally found a vertical slit placed a mechanical plug ,then climbed up two or three meters ,Li Lan and " ;the rope to the !" ;I almost equivalent to solo a whole Duan Sheng distance .But after several pitch is not difficult, every twenty or thirty meters placed a protection is enough .If we get on each other climbing style and psychological more familiar with some words ,in this part can use moving protection .This process occur above several rocks ,greatly small stones with whiz from height to fly ,but hit the wall are located within tens of meters away ,and did not affect us. 4 pm,climbed to the seventh paragraph, I left a gap over the cliffs on the fold of the upper layer ,where the rock is no longer a simple limestone ,but pack The more broken shale and slate ,placed to protect the chance is more .To continue upward climb ,to ninth end ,we finally left the sedimentary rock fold region ,arrived at the granite outcrops .At this time the weather is not early ,continue to climb two times ,day will be black .We the choice of a backrest elevation rock ramp as camping sites ,because the rock barrier rockfall ,and ramp integrated with gravel and sand ,a little flat can be clear enough two people sit in the space. The elevation of about 5200 meters.10 metreswith two pieces of little snow ,the rope under the protection of miter over to the snow fight back, started the fire to boil water .Though the snow mixed with a lot of gravel ,but we each pot water is first poured into the plastic bowl and then using bottom sand waste ,and no influence. However ,since the silicon nylon camping bag is very slippery ,we sat in the backpack always a little slip go on ,and a sleeping bag is not two cover ,so that night was not too comfortable. Climb the very next day .( 7)10 daysmorning 8:15,first half of the front part of a relatively slow rock grooves can follow, then at a mean of 60 degrees around thegranite The rock to choose simple local climbing .We cannot accurately determine their position ,because before shooting panoramic photographs are southwest direction angle ,rather than South ( opposite the mountain wall ) ,so the picture on the right side of the south wall of the terrain are all have different degrees of distortion ,not with the actual topography control .I vaguely feel ,we should have to target more than southeast of grooves in the East, but also do not know how far off .To climb a few ,I found the overhead partial left has a spire on the right side ,separated by a deep rock grooves is another spire ,and the the rock grooves while the shape of not much, but still possible is southeast of grooves. Rock grooves on both sides of the rocks are relatively smooth,Burberry Outlets, not suitable for climbing ,so not all the past, only to continue. This several pitch the overall difficulty of underlying persistent in about 5.7 ,to fifth on top left miter .To the left a ridge ,protection station did in the beginning of the ridge where it .Here only to find ,ridge and then left that we originally planned southeast grooves ,grooves on both sides of the rock is broken ,is prone to severe rockfall ,and grooves in intermediate White is not what we imagined snow ,but the powdered precipitation. Our position is granite and sedimentary strata boundaries above 200 meterssoutheast of the upper portion of the trench ,why will have a white powder deposition ?This mystery is for geologists to explain it. Then along the ridge and began climbing the sixth Duan Sheng distance ,this the entire route difficulties :first along the ridge climbs up the broken rock ,up to 10 metersafter the first turn to the right ,through a very exposed in the abyss ,need above center extraverted transverse section, and then is ten meters with elevation straight wall, finally returned to the ridge continues to climb the broken rock .Because I once a day has been lead climbing ,and psychological in peak physical condition ,so that a climb up fully and delightfully .Li Lan said after this section to a 5.10is not much,but then we consider wear mountaineering weight-bearing ( although not negative weight ) for high altitude climbing caused by sensory effects ,or decision this section of the set into 5.9 +,which is also the route of the digital origin classification difficult .As for the overall involvement into V ,are integrated into the sense of threat ,exposure ,rockfall continued difficulty and weather ( although the south wall Sunny day ,but almost always windy ) after the conclusion .The seventh segment only climbed half pitch ,I find myself standing in one place by the size of stones embedded into the steeple ,right opposite the rock groove spire than here should be low, but more on the right and a spire height ,with me standing spire was almost identical, straight-line distance estimation in semi Duan Sheng from within, if in two spires between pull a rope ,is the basic level should be .Think before studying maps and photographs ,are still unable to determine what is really the 5430 peak,but since the highly similar, and the time it was already in the afternoon 1 points,that .To protect Li Lan .( she even time is 1 : 50),photographed ,drink plenty of water ,eat ,two hours began to retreat. The descent and plans on the end of the first distance under Duan Sheng ran into trouble ,rope stuck somewhere ,how don move,Juicy Couture Outlet, and finally Li Lan pushed the prusik knot climbing back, to around two in the angle between the rope to straighten out .She when rising, not knowing where to fly over a stone ,completely without any warning, straight and hit me in the left eye ,causing a two cm around the wound Export ,flow of blood .The first thought is " ;it had to change sunglasses " ;( because of the almost complete absence of ice and snow on the route ,we did not wear sunglasses to climb ,but in my backpack Sunglasses with stone knocked off the glasses is a prescription ) ,it was in front of the backpack beneath the back frame glasses ,and no deformation .This a whole spent two hours ,to Li Lan falls back ,we put the rope is pumped down for good ,ready to drop the second paragraph, is already more than 4 pm .Considering from the wall to the top, two days a total of the climb 18 times,need to drop pitch number must be in 10above,and the mountain is so broken ,then the drawstring will remain very painful ,lower limestone fold belt and is difficult to set up a protection ,not suitable for nocturnal decline ,in the mountain before night seems to have become a foregone conclusion .Indeed ,until 7 at night when the day will be black ,we just finished from 7Duan Sheng,has just arrived at the junction position of granite and sedimentary rocks a little below .We will here along the fold belt platform to find a can put a stopper vertical slits ,backed by cliffs ( so you can hide To avoid the stone, but it does not hide may along the wall Bangun half slip down large stones ,because the rock is not elevation ) rolled out camping bag .Because only with a tank of gas ,I already not much, and my bag and Li Lan bottles are still half liter above water ,so the night no fire ,but water eat some dried fruit, fish ,such as chocolate .However ,this one night we put camping bag pulling on high ,half as tent to use,Ed Hardy Shops, and the body under the platform is more flat than the night before ,so they had a comfortable 11 daysthan the night before .At 7 in the morning for many days in the morning ,shrink in the camping bag burned 3 pots of water,8 moregood stuff to pack down. Try to use 5 mmauxiliary rope is wound on the rock as a fall protection points, on one hand because we take the petrous pyramid enough ,wherein the wafer cone is especially small, partly because the suitable for playing rock cone cracks are hard to find. Decreased to day seventh (a total of fourteenth ) is more than 11, this segment is initially a dozen meters is relatively slow rock slope ,below is a continuous tens of meters in elevation ,the rope dropped down to just can discover the rope head elevation below the rock, then installs the heart to come down in the sea .Pull out completely suspended drops ,and does not touch anything ,the feeling is still very exciting. ( couldn also made an _ ,cover girl ) however this segment after are out of trouble, the rope in smoked ten meters and then also did not move, do not know is it right? A connecting rope single knot card in the elevation angle edge what rock crevices. Then pumped down the end of rope has access to the following the scree slope ,so I put the rope fixed to the protection of the middle point, down to the scree slope ,the ends of the rope fastened on his safety belt, let Li Lan the middle rope untangled, with all the weight plus and force drawstring ,results of rope or not to turn a hair .No way, and had to let Li Lan put the rope middle then back protection point (set in rock in the corner of the rope ) ,drop down, the rope in the rock not .And it is the last the section ,and we take the two rope ( 8.2t60climbingrope and 7t60 auxiliaryrope ) are already very old, the intended this season after eliminated ,so it was not a big loss .Around 1 noon back to camp ,the family returned to Xu three thirty ,back from the one and only five mountain semicircular fold structure ,there is a way Kate :we actually feel like do mm despite the awkward ,spent a very long time ,but eventually do ." " ;another day ;this route is only 18,if it is made up of two each other very well ,with great understanding ,before the route has a full understanding of the climb to climb ,probably one day after climbing and descending .This from 9 to 9 a.m.on the wall, and on the 11 day 1 nooncame down ,on the road full spent 52 hours ,in terms of efficiency is greatly enhanced .Of course ,this is just me and Li Lan second time alongside climbing it, each other also failed to reach a tacit consensus ,to be able to finish such a high input line ,actually lets me a little be overjoyed .Five-color Shannan wall the greatest risk factor in Boulder, so appropriate climbing season is winter .Then come back control maps and pictures of the point of view ,still unable to distinguish what we reach the spire and its East (right ) side of the spire ,which one is more high .I think two between height should be two or three meters ,to colored Hill Yamagata is concerned, both of which reached a is successful. " ;" ;.This is a sheer rock route ,I also had the most difficult lead climbing rock climbing routes ,single of the rock section ,Central South wall than Yao Meifeng " ;free soul " ;route is long and difficult. For me, it was a very devoted ,very high quality climbing .I the pursuit of the climbing is like this mm course, speed faster, efficiency is a little higher ,the better .Thanks to The North Face on the climb all-around support, as well as Bestard to our personal support. Attached :route equipment list ( superscript * for consumption or discarded items ) 8.2t60 mclimbing rope 1* mmdown to the last paragraph when it jammed discarded 7t60metersand auxiliary rope (down rope ) 1* mmdown to the last paragraph when it jammed discarded near 8,where 120cm 1(mainly used to produce Protection Station ) ,60cm5,18cm2OmegaPacific Link Cam 4(0.5-2RockEmpire Robot Cam # ) 2(2-3#) * mm2 #plug in the very next day climbing sixth ( total seventeenth) card too, Li Lan didn come off ;3#plug in limestone fold segment is used as Black Diamond fall protection point of rock plug 8(4-11#) 5mm nylonauxiliary rope about 20 meters* mm is mainly used as a decline in 6mmDyneema auxiliary protection Rope about 8 meters* mm as fall protection point rock cone 8,where V shape 2,arrow 2*,4*mm as drop sheet protection points, including a gold arrow rock cone .Cone process missed and lost 12mmt60cmflat belt 4,2 of whichis used as a tool the wristband, 2used asequipment hanging with a small ice axe hammer shovel head of the 1branch( hammer as a rock hammer using cone ) 3(basic useless ) crampon 2(completely useless ) climbing 1 pairs of shoes( no use ) personal helmet ,safety belt ,rope ,chrysanthemum ,single lock protection
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